mercredi 21 octobre 2009

Classique - Jean-Paul Gaultier (oriental floral)

I bought it on September 17, 2009 in Heathrow airport. This was my first great impression about London

dimanche 6 septembre 2009

Cinema - Yves Saint-Laurent (oriental floral)

I've got Cinema as birthday gift today (06.09.09) from my grandmother.

dimanche 23 août 2009

Prada

Infusion d'Iris (oriental woody)

I've tried it today (23.08.09) and it would have been better if I hadn't done it. I can't judge Infusion d'Iris because it belongs to the fragrance branch I don't understand and don't like - so called leather perfumes. If somebody likes this destination, I beleive this is a good choice.



Prada Infusion d'Iris was introduced in 2007 as oriental-woodsy fragrance. The name of this fragrance was inspired by the old method of producing iris extract which took six months of soaking until the sweetly fresh iris notes were extracted.

This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum, orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.

The fragrance was designed by Daniela Roche-Andrier of Givaudan. It is captured in an elegant glass bottle reminiscent of retro perfume bottles.

It is available as 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.), 100ml (3.4 fl.oz.) and 200ml (6.9 fl.oz.) EDP and as pure perfume in 3.5ml (0.12 fl.oz.) and 7.5ml (0.26 fl.oz.) sizes.

When I started writing this review, I was very surprised by 2 things - 1. the classification. As for me it's pure leather fragrance. 2. available bottle sizes!! I was even more surprised when I opened the page of men's Infusion and saw there were bottles in 750 ml size! like a bucket :-)

As for the scent, I couldn't appreciate it at all. In the beginning I smelled woodsy notes that were very unusual and made the perfume similar to chypre ones - cold, distant, with a bit of pepper, not sweet. But from the beginning some leather notes began showing up, and not simply leather but caoutchouc! This las one made this scent unbearable for me. I will never want to try it again.

My definition: harsh caoutcouc




samedi 22 août 2009

Clons of For Her by Narciso Rodriguez

I often read there were fragrances very similar to For her, since I adore this last one, it was my obligation to test others :-)) I couldn't imagine they would be almost equal!

Sarah Jessica Parker - Lovely (floral woody musk)

If somebody gave to smell this perfume without telling what it is, I would definitely say this is For her EDP. When I gave it to smell to my husband who was waiting for me outside, he was very surprised why I sprayed Narciso Rodriguez' fragrance if I already have got it. This is the best testimony of their similarity.





Lovely is the first fragrance by Sarah Jessica Parker (in partnership with Coty Inc.). Obsessed with style and fashion, Sarah always wanted to create a signature scent that would be very sexy and yet undeniably classy. She did not want her fragrance to be overpowering, but instantly recognizable, like infamous aromatic concoction she made for herself from 3 separate fragrances before she co-created Lovely.

Lovely is a soft, powdery, discrete and very intimate fragrance, announced as 'silky white amber'. It possesses an elegance characteristic of classic fragrances. And yet the fragrance is quite modern and very charming.

It opens with soft citruses (nectarine and bergamot) and woody (rosewood) notes, with a touch of lavender, which is very discrete and not at all sharp. The fragrance develops further with notes of apple martini, white daffodil and orchid. The base unites white amber, cedar, woody notes and white musk.

According to Sarah's words, the perfume is appropriate for all generations: 'from 17 to 107'. The fragrance was created by Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry in 2005 with Sarah herself being the creative director, actively participating in the process from its start to finish.

Some people say Lovely is easier to wear than For her. Maybe they refer to EDT version, but I can't find difference between For her EDP and Lovely. Similar floral combination and base, maybe in For her it's a little bit muskier. So Lovely is lighter and more transparent because of it and not so playful than For her.

I'm not Sarah Jessia's fan, I will always prefer the original one - For her. One more disadvantage of Lovely is the staying powet which is very poor (about 2 hours) and For her lasts much more.

Of course, since For her is among my favourite scents, I like Lovely too, but will never buy it for me.

Lanvin - Rumeur (floral woody musk)

In this case we deal with the copy of For her EDT which is more agressive and provocative. I can see why they can be similar - both were created by the same nose Francis Kurkdjian. Maybe was it a commercial move to repeat the sucess of the scent created in 2003?





The perfume in which white flowers harmonize with musky base notes. The twinkly top notes of magnolia pour into a classic wave of aldehydes. The heart is sewed of white petals: white rose, jasmine, lily of the valley and fake orange, the scent of which reminds of orange blossom. The base smells on clear patchouli and musk. The perfume was created by Francis Kurkdjian in 2006.

Rumeur is sharper and more brutal comparing to For her EDT. It justifies its name of keen conversations behind you. Flowers smell harsher here because of jasmine and lily. As I saw in the description, it also contains fake orrange that makes it similar to the orange blossom's smell of For Her EDT. The musky base is almost the same, maybe I even have to delete the word almost. The lasting power seems very good, I sprayed it 3 hours ago and it's still v clearly smelled. The thing that I didn't like: in some moments I had impression to smell carton.

These two copies are incredible in their similatiry to For Her. If I haven't known the original one, I would pay my attention to them, they aren't bad at all although they don't have all sensual nuances of For her.

So Narciso Rodriguez' For her is perfectly perfect for me.

jeudi 13 août 2009

Salvatore Ferragamo

F by Salvatore Ferragamo (floral)

Generally I don't consider Ferragamo a serious perfume maker, but my interest woke up since I knew that F was created by Francis Kurkdjian. This fragrance is available in all shops, so I've tested it today (13.08.09).







F by Ferragamo by Salvatore Ferragamo is a floral fragrance for women. This perfume was presented in 2006 by designer Francis Kurkdjian . It introduces a floral breath of pure and intensive jasmine, intoxicating rose and orange blossom (neroli).

It's not bad but I haven't fallen in love with it. In the beginning it was very dusty and then became more tender. Although it's supposed to be floral, me and many other persons who tried F, can smell only fruits especially grape and strawberry. It's rather sweet and then reminds a candy. Very warm like under the sun rays. It's not at all sexy, just nice. When it become more powdery, it may be considered sensualVery similar to many others like V by Valentino, John Varvatos. I think it's a good option of present for a woman you don't know the taste.

It's independent as for the age, style etc. Girls and women, sporty and elegant can wear it. F doesn't have much carachter. Feminine, very good for the office.
As I can guess by descriptions, only this fragrance may interest me among all Ferragamo's creations.

My definition: dusty fruits

mercredi 12 août 2009

John Varvatos

For Women (chypre floral)

This fragrance is exposed only in one Ukrainian shop but it's among top-sellers there. The student whom I asked to buy For her by Narciso Rodriguez in Vienna and who loves perfumes, said me she was impressed by Varvatos. So I became even more curious to try it. I read its description before and was astonished in advance by the quantity of the components.





The first fragrance for women by John Varvatos has arrived in February 2008, at first to Saks 5th Avenue, and then world-wide by the end of September.

The muse for this fragrance was his wife Joyce, who has worked on creation of this fragrance and has given it an artistic touch. The fragrance was created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux of Givaudan and John Varvatos. It is composed of apricot, Damask plum and golden mandarin. The heart seduces with oriental lily, Indian mango blossom, Egyptian jasmine, and Turkish rose. The base unifies oakmoss, patchouli, Tonka beans and wild honey.

The fragrance comes as 15ml (0.5 fl.oz.) parfum extrait, and as eau de parfum, but a special one as it will contain 50% concentrated parfum.

The bottle, designed by Doug Lloyd of Pochet, comes in 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) and 100ml (3.4 fl.oz.) sizes.

The face of the fragrance is Louise Pederson, and the photographer – Alasdair Mclellan.

I can't agree with the given classification - I would call it floral-fruity, fruity-berry or floral-berry. Noone can smell there anyting referred to chypre. The main notes I smell are grape, apricot, plum. There are so many components there that it's quiet impossible to distinguish all of them. During first hours I smelled a light metallic note and I thoought that was because of Tonka beans (they give the same effect in Mat series). And besides all components have epithets - turkish rose, indian blossom etc. So complicated!

But the fragrance is really nice, graceful and very delicious. I have desire to eat it :-)) But it's not similar to so called jam-fragrances (like Nina New etc), very feminine with its own style.

My definition: delicious grace


samedi 8 août 2009

Estee Lauder

Sensuous (oriental woody)

Altough this fragrance was released in 2008, it has just appeared in Ukrainian shops. I tried it the first time on 15.07.09 and added it to my wish-list. I'm not a big Estee Lauder fan, but thought this fragrance was 100 % mine: cosy, warm, even raw, tender and spicy at the same time, woody and floral. It was very close to skin, quiet like Narciso Rodriguez fragrances, but lately I don't like loud perfumes that surround you like a wall.

Today (o8.08.09) I tested it again.















The new fragrance by Estee LauderSensuous, arrives in July 2008. This fragrance is moving the boundaries from already well known Estee Lauder floral notes towards opulent oriental woodsy-amber concept, which will praise the beauty and sensuality of women of all age.

Sensuous is created in cooperation with the nose Annie Buzantian of Firmenich, which composed it of sensual lily notes, magnolia and jasmine petals in the top. The heart brings aromas of molten wood and amber, while the base introduces sandalwood, black pepper, juicy mandarin pulp and honey.

The bottle draws attention with its simple, yet very elegant lines. It is made of heavy glass with waves, with rose-gold top and name imprinted in purple letters.

This design was selected for several reasons, including the intention of the designers to make it in line with pervious Estee Lauder editions.

The photographs were shot by Craig McDean. The ad faces for Sensuous will be Gwyneth Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda.

Today I was very unhappily surprised with Sensuous at the beginning: woody notes gave such a bad effect this time that the result was equal to the nauseaous For him by Narciso Rodriguez on my husband's skin. It smells like rotten tree (it's supposed to be molten wood) and it has lasted about 1-1,5 hours and then Sensuous came back to its "normal" state: wood + tender, gentle flowers where I can identifie only lily. The perfume is sweet and I have to admire the creator of having managed to produce more comlexe sweetness than vanilla, lollipop, chewing-gum that so many other perfumes have.

In this stade the scent is very harmonious, delicate, very intimate. During the first test I wanted to "make it louder". Maybe the people surrounding a person who wears Sensuous will be unable to smell it clearly (only if the person does 10 spritzes). But it seems that only me is complaining about this property - all other people who tried it didn't say anything about its calm.

As the ad suggests Sensuous should be appropriate for all ages and types. And I completely agree. I like the bottle, it reminds me hot sand and sea breeze.
I will make more tests and if this "rotten wood" doesn't show up, I will certainly want to have it in my collection.

My definition: raw delicacy