mercredi 21 octobre 2009

Classique - Jean-Paul Gaultier (oriental floral)

I bought it on September 17, 2009 in Heathrow airport. This was my first great impression about London

dimanche 6 septembre 2009

Cinema - Yves Saint-Laurent (oriental floral)

I've got Cinema as birthday gift today (06.09.09) from my grandmother.

dimanche 23 août 2009

Prada

Infusion d'Iris (oriental woody)

I've tried it today (23.08.09) and it would have been better if I hadn't done it. I can't judge Infusion d'Iris because it belongs to the fragrance branch I don't understand and don't like - so called leather perfumes. If somebody likes this destination, I beleive this is a good choice.



Prada Infusion d'Iris was introduced in 2007 as oriental-woodsy fragrance. The name of this fragrance was inspired by the old method of producing iris extract which took six months of soaking until the sweetly fresh iris notes were extracted.

This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum, orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.

The fragrance was designed by Daniela Roche-Andrier of Givaudan. It is captured in an elegant glass bottle reminiscent of retro perfume bottles.

It is available as 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.), 100ml (3.4 fl.oz.) and 200ml (6.9 fl.oz.) EDP and as pure perfume in 3.5ml (0.12 fl.oz.) and 7.5ml (0.26 fl.oz.) sizes.

When I started writing this review, I was very surprised by 2 things - 1. the classification. As for me it's pure leather fragrance. 2. available bottle sizes!! I was even more surprised when I opened the page of men's Infusion and saw there were bottles in 750 ml size! like a bucket :-)

As for the scent, I couldn't appreciate it at all. In the beginning I smelled woodsy notes that were very unusual and made the perfume similar to chypre ones - cold, distant, with a bit of pepper, not sweet. But from the beginning some leather notes began showing up, and not simply leather but caoutchouc! This las one made this scent unbearable for me. I will never want to try it again.

My definition: harsh caoutcouc




samedi 22 août 2009

Clons of For Her by Narciso Rodriguez

I often read there were fragrances very similar to For her, since I adore this last one, it was my obligation to test others :-)) I couldn't imagine they would be almost equal!

Sarah Jessica Parker - Lovely (floral woody musk)

If somebody gave to smell this perfume without telling what it is, I would definitely say this is For her EDP. When I gave it to smell to my husband who was waiting for me outside, he was very surprised why I sprayed Narciso Rodriguez' fragrance if I already have got it. This is the best testimony of their similarity.





Lovely is the first fragrance by Sarah Jessica Parker (in partnership with Coty Inc.). Obsessed with style and fashion, Sarah always wanted to create a signature scent that would be very sexy and yet undeniably classy. She did not want her fragrance to be overpowering, but instantly recognizable, like infamous aromatic concoction she made for herself from 3 separate fragrances before she co-created Lovely.

Lovely is a soft, powdery, discrete and very intimate fragrance, announced as 'silky white amber'. It possesses an elegance characteristic of classic fragrances. And yet the fragrance is quite modern and very charming.

It opens with soft citruses (nectarine and bergamot) and woody (rosewood) notes, with a touch of lavender, which is very discrete and not at all sharp. The fragrance develops further with notes of apple martini, white daffodil and orchid. The base unites white amber, cedar, woody notes and white musk.

According to Sarah's words, the perfume is appropriate for all generations: 'from 17 to 107'. The fragrance was created by Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry in 2005 with Sarah herself being the creative director, actively participating in the process from its start to finish.

Some people say Lovely is easier to wear than For her. Maybe they refer to EDT version, but I can't find difference between For her EDP and Lovely. Similar floral combination and base, maybe in For her it's a little bit muskier. So Lovely is lighter and more transparent because of it and not so playful than For her.

I'm not Sarah Jessia's fan, I will always prefer the original one - For her. One more disadvantage of Lovely is the staying powet which is very poor (about 2 hours) and For her lasts much more.

Of course, since For her is among my favourite scents, I like Lovely too, but will never buy it for me.

Lanvin - Rumeur (floral woody musk)

In this case we deal with the copy of For her EDT which is more agressive and provocative. I can see why they can be similar - both were created by the same nose Francis Kurkdjian. Maybe was it a commercial move to repeat the sucess of the scent created in 2003?





The perfume in which white flowers harmonize with musky base notes. The twinkly top notes of magnolia pour into a classic wave of aldehydes. The heart is sewed of white petals: white rose, jasmine, lily of the valley and fake orange, the scent of which reminds of orange blossom. The base smells on clear patchouli and musk. The perfume was created by Francis Kurkdjian in 2006.

Rumeur is sharper and more brutal comparing to For her EDT. It justifies its name of keen conversations behind you. Flowers smell harsher here because of jasmine and lily. As I saw in the description, it also contains fake orrange that makes it similar to the orange blossom's smell of For Her EDT. The musky base is almost the same, maybe I even have to delete the word almost. The lasting power seems very good, I sprayed it 3 hours ago and it's still v clearly smelled. The thing that I didn't like: in some moments I had impression to smell carton.

These two copies are incredible in their similatiry to For Her. If I haven't known the original one, I would pay my attention to them, they aren't bad at all although they don't have all sensual nuances of For her.

So Narciso Rodriguez' For her is perfectly perfect for me.

jeudi 13 août 2009

Salvatore Ferragamo

F by Salvatore Ferragamo (floral)

Generally I don't consider Ferragamo a serious perfume maker, but my interest woke up since I knew that F was created by Francis Kurkdjian. This fragrance is available in all shops, so I've tested it today (13.08.09).







F by Ferragamo by Salvatore Ferragamo is a floral fragrance for women. This perfume was presented in 2006 by designer Francis Kurkdjian . It introduces a floral breath of pure and intensive jasmine, intoxicating rose and orange blossom (neroli).

It's not bad but I haven't fallen in love with it. In the beginning it was very dusty and then became more tender. Although it's supposed to be floral, me and many other persons who tried F, can smell only fruits especially grape and strawberry. It's rather sweet and then reminds a candy. Very warm like under the sun rays. It's not at all sexy, just nice. When it become more powdery, it may be considered sensualVery similar to many others like V by Valentino, John Varvatos. I think it's a good option of present for a woman you don't know the taste.

It's independent as for the age, style etc. Girls and women, sporty and elegant can wear it. F doesn't have much carachter. Feminine, very good for the office.
As I can guess by descriptions, only this fragrance may interest me among all Ferragamo's creations.

My definition: dusty fruits

mercredi 12 août 2009

John Varvatos

For Women (chypre floral)

This fragrance is exposed only in one Ukrainian shop but it's among top-sellers there. The student whom I asked to buy For her by Narciso Rodriguez in Vienna and who loves perfumes, said me she was impressed by Varvatos. So I became even more curious to try it. I read its description before and was astonished in advance by the quantity of the components.





The first fragrance for women by John Varvatos has arrived in February 2008, at first to Saks 5th Avenue, and then world-wide by the end of September.

The muse for this fragrance was his wife Joyce, who has worked on creation of this fragrance and has given it an artistic touch. The fragrance was created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux of Givaudan and John Varvatos. It is composed of apricot, Damask plum and golden mandarin. The heart seduces with oriental lily, Indian mango blossom, Egyptian jasmine, and Turkish rose. The base unifies oakmoss, patchouli, Tonka beans and wild honey.

The fragrance comes as 15ml (0.5 fl.oz.) parfum extrait, and as eau de parfum, but a special one as it will contain 50% concentrated parfum.

The bottle, designed by Doug Lloyd of Pochet, comes in 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) and 100ml (3.4 fl.oz.) sizes.

The face of the fragrance is Louise Pederson, and the photographer – Alasdair Mclellan.

I can't agree with the given classification - I would call it floral-fruity, fruity-berry or floral-berry. Noone can smell there anyting referred to chypre. The main notes I smell are grape, apricot, plum. There are so many components there that it's quiet impossible to distinguish all of them. During first hours I smelled a light metallic note and I thoought that was because of Tonka beans (they give the same effect in Mat series). And besides all components have epithets - turkish rose, indian blossom etc. So complicated!

But the fragrance is really nice, graceful and very delicious. I have desire to eat it :-)) But it's not similar to so called jam-fragrances (like Nina New etc), very feminine with its own style.

My definition: delicious grace


samedi 8 août 2009

Estee Lauder

Sensuous (oriental woody)

Altough this fragrance was released in 2008, it has just appeared in Ukrainian shops. I tried it the first time on 15.07.09 and added it to my wish-list. I'm not a big Estee Lauder fan, but thought this fragrance was 100 % mine: cosy, warm, even raw, tender and spicy at the same time, woody and floral. It was very close to skin, quiet like Narciso Rodriguez fragrances, but lately I don't like loud perfumes that surround you like a wall.

Today (o8.08.09) I tested it again.















The new fragrance by Estee LauderSensuous, arrives in July 2008. This fragrance is moving the boundaries from already well known Estee Lauder floral notes towards opulent oriental woodsy-amber concept, which will praise the beauty and sensuality of women of all age.

Sensuous is created in cooperation with the nose Annie Buzantian of Firmenich, which composed it of sensual lily notes, magnolia and jasmine petals in the top. The heart brings aromas of molten wood and amber, while the base introduces sandalwood, black pepper, juicy mandarin pulp and honey.

The bottle draws attention with its simple, yet very elegant lines. It is made of heavy glass with waves, with rose-gold top and name imprinted in purple letters.

This design was selected for several reasons, including the intention of the designers to make it in line with pervious Estee Lauder editions.

The photographs were shot by Craig McDean. The ad faces for Sensuous will be Gwyneth Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda.

Today I was very unhappily surprised with Sensuous at the beginning: woody notes gave such a bad effect this time that the result was equal to the nauseaous For him by Narciso Rodriguez on my husband's skin. It smells like rotten tree (it's supposed to be molten wood) and it has lasted about 1-1,5 hours and then Sensuous came back to its "normal" state: wood + tender, gentle flowers where I can identifie only lily. The perfume is sweet and I have to admire the creator of having managed to produce more comlexe sweetness than vanilla, lollipop, chewing-gum that so many other perfumes have.

In this stade the scent is very harmonious, delicate, very intimate. During the first test I wanted to "make it louder". Maybe the people surrounding a person who wears Sensuous will be unable to smell it clearly (only if the person does 10 spritzes). But it seems that only me is complaining about this property - all other people who tried it didn't say anything about its calm.

As the ad suggests Sensuous should be appropriate for all ages and types. And I completely agree. I like the bottle, it reminds me hot sand and sea breeze.
I will make more tests and if this "rotten wood" doesn't show up, I will certainly want to have it in my collection.

My definition: raw delicacy

Carolina Herrera

I'm not a big fan of this mark but I tested some of its perfumes...

212 sexy (oriental floral)


If I had to write something about this fragrance some weeks ago, my review would have been totally negative. I tested it in June and since that time it was the perfume I disliked so much. I would name it so nauseous and cheap. All that I remember is unbearable sweetness in the company of soap.









212 Sexy is an essence of the sensual feminity, charming, impressive, and irresistible. The mauve colored bottle with matte metallic cap symbolizes the harmony between passion and tenderness. The top unites freshness of bergamot with warm and exciting pink pepper. The heart reveals delicate gardenia and sharp geranium. The base is deep and balmy with a long and sensual trace of caramel, vanilla, sandalwood and mysterious musk. It was launched in 2005.

The nose behind this fragrance is Alberto Morillas.

I had nothing to test today (08.08.09) in order my wrists and arms be all occupied with fragrances so I decided to repeat 212 sexy.
I was highly surprised with it. The weather was windy and a little bit cold today, maybe it influenced the result. But today it wasn't sweet and soapy. The result I got today was a light and poor copy of Angel (Thierry Mugler). Due to this reason it couldn't be awful...

I guess the first time I tried it fresh notes were not developped and today I could smell mainly bergamot and caramel after. Sure I haven't fallen in love and still keep thinking is a cheap smell for young girls who like screaming: "Oh, it's so sexy! My boyfriend likes it so much!". But not I will not say it's horrible and awful.

Another test needed.

Today (13.08.09) I've tried it again and now can identify it as... (see below). I will not wear it. it's more suitable for girls who are very superficial.

My definition: strawberry herbal soap. cheap but pleasant.

Stella - Stella McCartney

Stella (floral)

Usually I hate fragrances produced by famous people like Jennifer Lopez or Britney Spears. Sure, Stella McCartney isn't among them because her father is a celebrity, not her. But one thing surprised me a lot - almost all reviews of people whose tastes I respect have a very positive opinion about Stella.
I managed to find it today, 08.08.09 and I completely share the opinion this is a great smell.









Stella McCartney: “I showed an old-time picture of rose to a designer. Just imagine a luxurious flower, heavy and beautiful; its petals fall of just by your gentile touch. I would love to keep this frailness beauty, this moment of perfection in the perfume.” The designer of the perfume is famous Jaques Cavallier. No matter the reputation of rose perfumes as old-fashioned, Stella with her classical retro chic, stands by the side from the bunch of new perfumes and attracts attention with her peculiarity. In the top notes there are rose oil, peony with the gentle touch of fresh tangerine. In the heart of the perfume there is rose, whose gentile scent is emphasized by deep note of amber in the base. The perfume was made in 2003. Stella is available even in the concentration of perfume extract in the amount of 7, 5 ml and in roll-on bottles. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Cavallier.

My curiosity towards Stella has grown up since I knew it had been created by the same perfumer Jacques Cavallier who did my favourite Classique by JPG.

I liked Stella from the first sniff. The rose is one of my beloved notes in fragrances but it's sad I can't enjoy it because it becomes soapy too quickly. And soap is what I dislike the most. Till now I met only one rose that almost didn't become soapy - Miss Charming (Juliette has a gun).
But Stella has the most beautiful rose I have ever met. It's fair to call it monofragrance because rose dominates from the beginning till end. But this rose is so wonderful that I can easily forgive Stella the absence of other notes. But amber note gives it a light sweetness. Some reviewers claimed the lasting power, on my skin it has lasted 8 hours and I can still smell it.

The fragrance is elegant, aristocratic, dramatic. Suitable for all seasons and time. I wouldn't mind to have Stella in my collection.

My definition: rose aristocracy

mardi 4 août 2009

Burberry

In my opinion Burberry reflects perfectly British style, all fragrances are urban, severe, quite simple but elegant, ceremonius.

Weekend (floral)

This was the first perfume by Burberry that I've tried (June 2009). I would say this is more fruity than floral fragrance.





This relaxing, powdery fragrance is dedicated to weekend. A relaxing country style perfume, named Weekend for Women. Top notes include sweet and zesty mandarine and aromatic grassy notes. Heart notes contain blue hyacinth, iris, nectarine, peach flower, red cyclamen and wild rose. The drydown is a perfect blend of sandalwood, cedar and musk. It was created by Nathalie Lorson in 1997.

I didn't like it much. I could smell only peach and woody drydown that made the combination not very pleasant for me. The fragrance is very long lasting. But on my skin it was rather robustious and rough. And a bit keen to me.

My definition: sharp peaches

Burberrys (floral fruity)

I paid attention to this fragrance after reading comments that Deep night Ghost that I desperately was looking for was similar to Burberrys. Now when I tried both I can't find many similarities: Deep night is much sweeter and Burberrys is more acidic.







Burberry Woman or Burberry London for Women is a feminine version of the fragrant duo, called Burberry. Burberry woman is simple and charming, she loves the City she lives in and enjoys the long walks in the streets of London. Perfume is made in striking minimalist design. It starts with succulent and fresh burst of fruits; peach, apricot, cool pear and black currant. The heart is woody-floral; composed of clear and sharp notes of jasmine gently harmonized with the notes of sandalwood and cedar. The drydown is made of musk and vanilla. The perfume was created by Michel Almairac in 1995.

It's not bad but I haven't fallen in love with this fragrance. By fruity notes it's a bit similar to Weekend but woody base is more evident here. I try to probit myself reading comments before testing the fragrance. But I seldom manage :-)) This time I read a definition that turned around in my head while I was smelling Burberrys: " ice cream stick". I imagined a woman in costume wearing it although I guess it's not very capricious as for the clothes. Burberrys seemed a bit sharp to me too. Maybe because of citrusy notes the fragrance is acidic.

My definition: I can find something more suitable than ice cream stick.

London (floral)

I tested it in July 2009, it was a hot sunny day, not very suitable for this fragrance's mood. It's supposed to reveal London's style and carachter that's why it must be perfect in humid and rainy weather.











This fragrance is indispensible while visiting the city of London if one wants to feel the pulse of this old and contemporary city. This is a classic floral scent with jasmine in its heart. It opens up with rose and honeysuckle harmonized with a fruity tangerine note. White floral hear note includes jasmine, Tiare Flower and Soft Peony. It leaves a velvety trail of wood and musk. Burberry London was created in 2006 by Dominique Ropion, Jean-Marc Chaillan. It’s advertising campaign features actress Rachel Weisz and actor Ioann Gruffud.

Smelling this fragrance I really have impression that London has to smell like this. Maybe the bottle decorated with Bueberry's speciality - checkered cloth also influences it. I always associate Brittish people with checkered scarf.

The strange thing - many people can smell strawberry in London altough it doesn't appear among components. So do I!!! Even more - I can't smell amything esle except strawberry and the base. The scent is quite monotone but beautiful and elegant. It is really able to warm the person who wears it like a woolen srarf. I think it's perfect for cold automn and winter days and appropriate for all ages and styles people. Would be an excellent gift for somebody.

Today London is my favourite of women's fragrances by Burberry.

My definition: strawberry fog

Brit EDT (floral fruity)

Today (07.08.09) I tried Brit in EDT version. I guess it is quiet different from EDP.



Brit Eau de Toilette
The Brit girl embodies the playful British spirit of individuality. She's outrageous, but always charming and unpredictably sexy. Fresh and playful, the fragrance is a classic, green-oriental blend of lush fruits, sweet nutty essences, and soothing amber, vanilla, and Tonka bean.

Notes:
Italian Lime, Icy Pear, Green Almond, White Peony, Sugared Almonds, Amber, Mahogany, Vanilla, Tonka Bean.
Style:
Impulsive. Sexy. Unique.

As the name suggests Brit is supposed to be in accordance to British style and I think the creators managed to embody it in a perfume.
The beginning is not impressive much - it starts like a lemonade because of citrus and pear notes.
But in 30 minutes the scent becomes more complexe: unfortunately I'm unable to analyze this effect by notes, but there is impression to smell a woolen scarf (I had the same feeling when I had tried men's Brit some weeks ago) ot woolen plaid. And I had an image in my head of a person sitting in a rocking chair under this plaid, reading newspaper and drinking tea. It's raining outside...
My fantasy wasn't absurd at all because the drydown of Brit is... sugared tea.

I can't agree with the carachteristics given my Sephora to this fragrance. As for me it's not sexy it all. It's cosy, warm, woolen. In the base it's similar to V and V Absolu by Valentino.

My definition: woolen cosiness

dimanche 2 août 2009

Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier hasn't created many perfumes, but I adore almost all of them. They are in a perfect accordance to his style: unusual, provocative, brave.

Classique (oriental floral)


This is the most special fragrance for me ever. My grandmother who was the person I adore used to wear Classique. And I have remembered this scent since as I a child. The cute bottle alwas attracted my attention. This was a very emotional moment to try Classique now. Yes, it was exactly the same fragrance I loved so much... its trails are unforgettable... It's a strange sensation to come back to childhood again. Now this is the fragrance I want to have most of all and I will buy it as soon as I go to travel somewhere.

The fragrance exists in 2 versions - EDT and EDP (I don't take into consideration all limited editions). EDT is better in my opinion, it develops on skin offering a big amount of nuances.











'A fragrance that promises pleasure...' Bold and sweet, awakes your feelings. And not only yours – imagine that people can recognize you even with their eyes closed. At the beginning its name was JPGaultier Eau de Parfum and it was produced as eau de parfum. Now, it is called Classique and comes both as eau de perfume and eau de toilette. In the top notes delicate rose scent is spiced by fresh anis. Middle notes combine sweetness of orange blossom and exciting ginger, a powerful aphrodisiac. Vanilla and sensual amber gently embrace in the base. The perfume is created in 1993.

The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Cavallier.

It's almost impossible for me to describe this fragrance. I'm short on words. If I had to choose 3 top-fragrances they would be Euphoria, For her and Classique (I don't know which perfume I would give the 1 or 3 place, they are equal for me, I adore them).

Smells so sexy, elegant, appealing, chic and classy. And Gaultier...he is a great artist. So full of imagination and so daring! The citrus of the orange blossom and anis of the top notes mesh wonderfully together with the amber, musk, and vanilla of the base notes. The scent is not too sweet and the sillage is very long and incredible.

It's fresh oriental and floral scent at the same time and always changes from one point to another.

The bottle alone is excitingly appealing, exuding sexiness.

I'll complete this review after having bought Classique.

EDP version





Differs from EDT not only by the bottle (here the corset the woman wears is different, colour differs too), the smell isn't the same neither.
It's deeper than EDT but doesn't offer all its nuances and game of notes.

Gaultier 2 (oriental vanilla)

Usually I hate the fragrances unisex and can't name any that I like. In my opinion, all unisex fragrances I tested (frankly speaking, I didn't want even to try them haha) were too plain, without carachter like a person who tries to be pleasant for everybody.
This is the only unisex fragrance I love!







Gaultier 2 by Jean Paul Gaultier is a oriental vanilla fragrance for women and men. Gaultier 2 was launched in 2005. The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian. The fragrance features amber, musk and vanilla.

I respect very much Francis Kurkdjian's talent, he created some fragrances I admire. Gaultier 2 didn't desappoint me. And I liked the idea of creating perfume for the couple in love sharing all even the fragrance. Although only 3 main components appear - amber, musk, vanilla, it contains much more and is more complexe than it may seem.

After the first spritz I smelled something heavy, spicy and it was hard to imagine a woman wearing it. But the scent changed very quickly becoming very sensual, close to skin, intimate, sexy. I enjoy musky fragrances because they differ on all people wearing them. Here the musk dominates too. The scent is a bit sweet but not too much. Absolutely appropriate for women and men both. I'm pretty sure that nobody will think a couple is wearing the same perfume because it will be perceived in a different way depending on the skin chemistry. We'll have the opportunity to check it because I bought this fragrance as a gift for my husband's birthday.

I completely agree with people who call Gaultier 2 liquid sex of sex in the bottle. It's not bestial like Boudoir but very appealing, sensua, very hot. The lasting power is remarkable.

My definition: sexappeal

Madame (floral)

This is the youngest Gaultier's fragrance
and in my opinion less good than previous ones. It's not bad at all and it will conquer the auditory it's aimed to - young girls. The reason I don't like it much isbecause I can't feel Gaultier's style here, it's equal to hundreds of perfumes that appear monthly. Like it was done in a hurry, only to acheive a profit using market needs. Only the bottle repeating woman's body but this time in usual flacon doesn't allow to forget this is still Gaultier.









After the new edition for men, Monsieur Eu Du Matin, which has been available in stores since April 1st 2008, a new fragrance for women, which will complete Gaultier's magic collection of fragrances, is announced for September 2008.

If we do not count Gaultier's seasonal plays with colorite and notes, which are variations of the legendary perfume Classique, the last perfume presented to female audience was Fragile in 1999. Gaultier made a 9 year break before his latest edition, MA DAME (My Lady), which aims at younger audience and differs from previous editions. It was created in cooperation with BPI (Shiseido) and imagined as a contemporary sequence which completes the story told by Classique.

The perfume MA DAME was imagined and created as a fresh, floral one, and all merits for it go to perfumer Francis Kurkdjian (Takasago), who also created the famous Le Male and Fragile, just to remind you.

MA DAME includes sporty notes of rose, grenadine, musk and cedar. The bottle was designed as a transparent block of glass, coloured in pink, with an engraved sculpture of the legendary Classique.

Ma Dame is a cheerful, girly fragrance. I can smell mainly grenadine and raspberry, I don't know why. Suitable for all kind of clothes. This is a young girl who likes to play and flirt. Not romantic, feminine, elegant just joyful and decisive.

At the beginning the smell was loud, but in 30 minutes it became so quiet that I could hardly distinguish it.

My definition: tearaway

Fragile EDT (floral)


Last month I tried EDP on the blotter, it seemed too heavy to me at the beginning but then I was impressed with its originality and lasting power. Since that time I had idea to test it on my skin. Unfortunately there was only EDT version in the shop and I decided to try it too (07.08.09).

Many people admire this bottle, as for me, I find it ugly. It reminds me souvenirs sold in different cities (Paris, New York) with main curiosites in such bottle and flacons of snow or sparkles inside.
But this bottle matches perfectly with the name of fragrance - Fragile.





Eau de toilette version of the famous perfume was created at a later stage. Despite its general resemblance to Fragile, it is still a fragrance for itself. The night queen, tuberose, together with mouthwatering citruses creates a fresh and luminescent beginning. The soft composition heart is made of floral notes and voluptuous tuberose is again in the centre of attention, moderate sweet, moderate wild, all but innocent. The musk notes are in the soft base trace. The perfume was created in 2001 The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian.

Almost everyone says EDT is a poor copy of EDP. It's bad I don't remember well EDP version to compare them now. I liked this one from the beginning till end.
Tuberose is incredible here just like in Classique but the whole combination is very different.
Fragile is fresh and floral berry or even berry floral. The berries are like cassis, strawberries although it must be only my imagination - these components aren't present in the fragrance.

The whole is so transparent, light, jingly... The woman in the bottle in black long dress (altough I don't like her much) expresses very well the mood of the perfume. And I must confess the bottle is suitable too. The freshness of this fragrance is cold, I have impression to smell the snowy glitter and to hear snow crunching under the steps.
I can't say anything about EDP but EDT is more appropriate for daily time in my opinion.

I especially enjoyed to smell Fragile when the wind was blowing. Absolutely fabulous sensation! 100 % Gaultier's style.

My definition: jingly fragility

Fragile EDP (floral)
The shop assistant (19.08.09) warned me that the tester was very old and it might disfigure the real smell. Maybe because of it I didn't manage to find many differences with EDT version, but EDP was much sharper in unpleasant way.





Voluptuous and mystic tuberose which makes you live 'dangerously' rules in the heart of eau de parfum Fragile. As usual, Gaultier plays with our associations. Fragile is the warning word usually printed on the outer package with delicate and breakable items, and the box of Fragile was made in that fashion. It is fun and intriguing. Intoxicating smell of tuberose in the top notes is followed by raspberry leaves and sweet orange blossoms; pink pepper and other spices compose the heart, while the warm woody notes and light musk create a dazzling lingering trace. It was launched in 1999.

The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian.

In Fragile EDP berries are in combination with flowers. I can clearly distinguish raspberry and tuberose. The name of this fragrance is more than justified, it's associated with fragility, weakness in a good sense. The bottle refrects this idea too although I find it ugly. I can say the same about the ad poster - it's connected with something strange, unusual, solemn, kitch and elegant at the same time.

I haven't fallen in love with Fragile EDP, but I want to try a normal tester. For now I prefer EDT version which is lighter and softer.

I bought 35 ml of EDP today - 26.08.09. It was a spontaneous purchase, I saw a sale announcement from a woman that had sold me Flowerbomb and Hypnotic Poison. The price was ridiculous so I decided to have it in my collection. I'll describe it later.

My definition:








jeudi 30 juillet 2009

Hypnotic Poison - Dior (oriental vanilla)

It's very strange but it's impossible to find Hypnotic poison anywhere in Ukraine. All other Dior's poisons are exposed - Pure poison, Midnight poison, Poison Tenre and even the very first Poison. After reading contradictory comments and the fact it was Madonna's favourite perfume I wanted to try it even more.
One girl of city forum proposed to share her bottle and I bought 5 ml of it (30.07.09) to try.








Hypnotic Poison by Dior is a oriental vanilla fragrance for women. Hypnotic Poison was launched in 1998. The nose behind this fragrance is Annick Menardo. Top notes are allspice, apricot, plum and coconut; middle notes are tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose and brazilian rosewood; base notes are sandalwood, almond and vanilla.

My first impression of this fragrance was how warm it is!! It almost burns you! Usually I don't divide fragrances in summer and winter ones, but as for me this one is totally appropriate for winter. I can mostly smell almond and vanilla, sometimes plum. Many people claim it's too sweet or sugary. On my skin it's not because the almond dominates. Hypnotic poison doesn't develop much on the skin, it stays almost the same like just sprayed. As for EDT the lasting power is good.
Some people say to smell there pharmacy or bandage scent. I couldn't smell this as much as I tried. I don't agree it's highly sexual like the ad suggests, but it's provocative.
These are my impressions after wearing it for one time, I'll come back after.

My definition: almond warmth

Flowerbomb - Victor and Rolf (oriental)

It's very hard to test this fragrance in the stores. Although I'm suspicious about the marks I don't know, I became interested.
So when one girl proposed to share her bottle I decicded to try Flowerbomb and ordered 5 ml of it. It's a very lovely, well-made, modern perfume.





An explosive bouquet of fresh and sweet notes arrives with the perfume Flowerbomb, designed by Olivier Polge, Carlos Benaim and Domitille Berthier. It was introduced in 2005, as an oriental perfume. The top notes tingle with fresh and sweet accords of bergamot and green tea. The heart is floral and opulent with intensive, sweet and pure jasmine, seductive rose, freesia and orchid. Sandalwood in the base wraps us with an oriental scent while its milky and powdery notes gently fondle with our skin. The bottle was designed by Fabien Baron, in shape of diamond-granate, alluding at the fragrance itself, since it is so explosive, sophisticated and glamorous. It was introduced at the 10th anniversary of Viktor&Rolf house’s work.

Before I bought it I read that some people found this fragrance too sweet, even sickly and had a headache. So when I got it I made only one sptitz, but soon made one more. It didn't kill me, I'm still alive and I could stand it very well. On my skin it's not too sweet. The first component I'm able to distinguish is tea and bergamot. The flower composition is complexe according to the description and I must confess I'm unable to distinguish all flowers except orchid and rose. The base is sweet and reminds me cotton candy. The base is a bit powdery but not much.

All components are very organic and harmonious.
I went to walk in the street and I was enjoying so much the alternance: fresh tea with bergamot and sweet flowers. Great!
One remark: it reminded me Cinema by YSL in some points. It's because of tea, I guess. Flowerbomb is feminine and fervent, provoking at the same time. The one thing I didn't like it seems Flowerbomb doesn't last much. I will watch over.

My definition: modern intensity

mardi 28 juillet 2009

Juliette has a gun

Lady Vengeance (chypre floral)

The fragrances by Nina Ricci's great-grandson Romano Ricci appeared in the end of 2008 in major stores and according to their statictics became very popular. I always have doubts about the unknown trademarks and hesitated to try them. I knew that these fragrances were created by the perfumer I respect a lot - Francis Kurkdjian. I admire his fragrances for Narciso Roriguez and Jean Paul Gaultier. Yesterday I finally tried two perfumes 28.07.09 and they produced a very good impression to me. I liked!





As said in ads, in this collection 'Rock meets romance'. The collection is inspired by modernized version of Shakespeare. The creator of Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance is Romano Ricci of A&R Parfums, the great grandson of legendary couture designer Nina Ricci. For this enterprise he engaged a renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian.

The fragrance features Italian rose, vanilla and patchouli. It is captured in a bottle designed by Sylvie de France. It was created in 2006.

Lady Vengeance is a seductuve and agressive fragrance. The rose is very sharp in combination with patchouli. It suggests a picture of lady-vamp or femme fatale - a woman who is hunting men. She is rapacious with sharp long nails and red lipstick.
I don't know if I buy it some day, it's too agresseve on my skin. And then it becomes powdery and soapy reminding to some people Agent Provocateur or Narciso Rodriguez - For her. I don't see anything in common with For her, with Agent Provocateur - neither. The strange thing is that yesterday I had Boudoir on one wrist and Lady Vengeance on another, and in the end they were similar.
The fragrance is worth attention, with its own carachter.

My definition: rapacious agressivity

Miss Charming (floral fruity)

I tried it only to compare with Lady Vengeance which seemed to correspond better to my style. It is a miracle because I liked Miss Charming even more.



As said in ads, in this collection 'Rock meets romance'. The collection is inspired by modernized version of Shakespeare. The creator of Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance is Romano Ricci of A&R Parfums, the great grandson of legendary couture designer Nina Ricci. For this enterprise he engaged a renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian.

Miss Charming brings notes of Moroccan rose, strawberry and litchi. The bottle was designed by Sylvie de France. The fragrance was created in 2006.

The rose in this fragrance is very different from Lady Vengeance's one. Here it's beautiful, not very tender, but not agressive. The strawberry is also good. I associate the scent with white colour and have a picture of romantic but very clever and wise woman who enjoies playing with men. She uses her naivety and infantility to seduce and attract. It's a kind of wolf in sheep's clothing.
I want to have a small bottle of it. I bought 9 ml of it 30.07.09.

My definition: naive seduction

Citizen Queen (floral woody musk, chypre)

Since I liked two previous fragrances by Juliette has a gun, I was very impatiend to test this one too. I did it 30.07.09 while I was waiting a girl who sold me 9 ml of Miss Charming.



The third fragrance of the collection is introduced in April 2008. It is composed as chypre aldehyde with animalic dose. The design continues the modern romantic saga on Shakespeare’s rebel, and the bottle is colored milky-white and with silver top. The motif of roses is unavoidable decoration on the bottle. This time the outer box is black with black bow on the top.

I liked this one less than two others. First of all because of something metallic that I could smell. I guess these are aldehydes. The rose is beautiful but this acidic or metallic notes worsens all composition in my opinion. Like the creator wanted to introduce a smell of real gun in the fragrance in order this Juliette will
be armed.

Then Citizen Queen softens and animalic (musky?) notes appear, they are calm and quiet. I can also smell amber that mkes the fragrance warm. But metallic notes don't go away. It's a pitty...


My definition: metallic musk

Boudoir - Vivienne Westwood (chypre floral)

I was attracted by this fragrance since I saw its name. It seemed very intriguing, promising, appealing... Boudoir like a woman's secret place...The comments about this fragrance are very contradictory: from admiration to deepest hate. It's impossible to find it in a store, even in internet-shop. I saw one in internet-shop in Kiev so I decided to take a risk and buy it without test. The risk was big because they had only a bottle of 75 ml. I got it today - 28.07.09.







Boudoir


Boudoir, a chypre-floral fragrance for women, is present since 1998. It is dedicated to a feminine and strong woman, with accentuated sexuality. Just like a boudoir, the fragrance defines a private and intimate space, charming and seductive, while touching the woman's skin, neck and decollete.

It was designed by Martin Gras with an intention to create a fragrance that will make all men turn their heads after the woman that wears it when the smell wafts past them. The top notes are aldehydes, sweetly-fresh bergamot, hyacinth, and orange blossom.

The heart is sweet and opulent with jasmine, luscious rose, narcissus, carnation, orris root, cardamom and coriander. The base brings patchouli, warm and milky sandal wood, tobacco leaves, cinnamon and powdery soft vanilla.

The bottle was designed by Fabrice Legros. The top is made as a globe encircled by a ring, which symbolize the power of femininity.

This is a very strange, rich and unusual fragrance as I could constant after applying it on my wrist (I decided to examine it first on my hand). We can see from the description Boudoir contains a lot of components. At first sniff the composition seemed lovely but a little bit heavy and strange to me: I was able to distinguish languishing, seductive sweet flowers, spice combined with a very uncommon base. Sure maybe the base was common and the whole gave me such impression.

I couldn't take the wrist away from my nose trying to understand wether I like it or not... I thought this heavy base was chypra and found something common with Agent provocateur. Then I realized it wasn't chypra but aldehydes and now I found similarities with Chanel N 5. In this phase these notes produce an effect of so called "dusty curtains" or "grandma's trunk". Some people claim to smell unwashed body. Thanks to God, I didn't manage.

The combination was lovely but this base disturbed me and didn't permit to enjoy the whole. Finally the aldehydes went away in 1'5-2 hours and Boudoir transformed into the greatest pleasure for me!! Absolutely fabulous! Erotic, sexy, bestial (sure all these adjectives can be used to describe it from the beginning but I had desire to say them only when these disturbing notes desappeared). The fragrance became not so loud, very intimate. I'm not original: I see a woman in sexy lingerie waiting for her man lying on silk sheets. I like the sweetness and the warmth of the scent - it seems to burn you in a good way. Maybe sex as a process smells like this. I'm very satisfied with this purchase!

My definition: bestial passion

dimanche 26 juillet 2009

Calvin Klein

Contradiction (floral woody musk)

I became interested in this fragrance after reading comments. I thought it might me an ideal present for a woman whose tastes you don't know well. It's quiet impossible to find it in major shops only in internet-shops. And I'm afraid to buy without try. I was so surprised to see Contradiction in one big shop. I didn't hesitate a minute to test it.







Calvin Klein feels the time and creates fragrances which are in the full harmony with certain times and generations and more over they set trends.
Contradiction is a fragrance for an active urban woman, "she is always and never the same". Intensive floriental with a pronounced metal nuance was very actual in later 1990-ties.

The composition opens with the floral notes of rose, peony, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley. The new and modern note of eucaliptus in the middle is refreshing the classic floral buquet. The heart blends with eucaliptus, pear blossom, orchid and syringa. Oriental base includes sandal and Tonka bean.
The perfume was designed by Ann Gottlieb 1998.

Contradiction desappointed me from the very beginning. First it was too metallic. According to creator's conception it's supposed to be one of carachteristics of urban life. I don't like metallic smells at all.

The second thing I didn't appreciate is the rose that became too soapy. Thanks to God this scent didn't last very long on my wrist. It's one more example how dangerous the buying withoyt trying is. And I didn't get at all what of contradictory is in this smell.

My definition: metallic soap

Secret Obsession (oriental floral)

Since this fragrance was released in 2008 I heard and read only bad comments about it - almost everybody said it was stinking. I had the opportunity to try it only today (08.08.09). I can't say it's too bad, but too easy and really doesn't worth attention.











Secret Obsession by Calvin Klein is oriental floral fragrance for women. The noses behind this fragrance are Givaudan and Ann Gottlieb. Top notes are exotic plum, nutmeg (mace) and rose de damasc; middle notes are Egyptian jasmine, French orange blossom and seductive tuberose; base notes are cashmere woods, Madagascar vanilla, burnt amber and Australian sandalwood.

Launching of Secret Obsession fragrance is announced for September 2008. including Eva Mendes in new provocative campaign.

The campaign for the fragrance Secret Obsession has already caused a lot of fuzz. Commercial showing Eva with impure thoughts emphasizes provocation with Eva's sexy voice which tells all her sexual secrets. TV networks and advertisers did not like the commercial, precisely because of too accentuated sexual implementations.

Print campaign was created in black and white version with Eva in passionate rapture on the photographs. It is mentioned by the house CK that the video commercial tells the whole story, while print form of photographs can capture just one moment of passion. Fashion and lifestyle magazines will publish the commercial from September 2008.

And what did Eva Mendes say about the perfume when she tried it? 'When I first tried Secret Obsession, I was completely taken over by it. When you first try some kind of food and you instantly have a craving for another bite – that is exactly how I felt when I tried the perfume Secret Obsession.

Unfortunately I haven't tested previous Obsessions by CK, the comparations are inevitable in this case. As for me, the sensual video (by the way, very similar to Shalimar ad) is in total disaccordance with the fragrance which is not sexy at all.

I can smell mainly plum in sweet combination of vanilla and amber that creates impression of plum jam. I think the main mistake of creators of this perfume was to apply to its sexuality and to set it up for women. As far as I can see, if Secret obsession was aimed to younger "girly" auditory (like Nina New), it would have found much more fans (like Nina did).

As soon as plum desappears, the scent becomes very unclear and indiscriminate. I can't feel it anymore. The lasting power is poor, about 2-3 hours.

My definition: plum jam