dimanche 26 juillet 2009

Agent Provocateur

Agent Provocateur (floral woody musk)

This is supposed to be a provocative, sexy, appealing fragrance but when I tried it first time on blotter, I had desire to vomit. Any fragrance gave me such effect.





Agent Provocateur is the signature fragrance of the house. Its sharp very intensive animalistic and very provocative juice has become a modern classic combining Indian saffron, coriander from Russia, Egyptian Jasmine and Vetivert from Haiti among other exotic elements.

The fragrance is in a wonderfully tactile precious porcelain bottle with the shape of an egg (or a bomb?). It is so rosy and innocent, contrasting with its wild and shameless erotic scent.

The composition starts strong and sharp with a spicy note of saffron. Warm floral notes of magnolia, Indian jasmine and gardenia blend together with strong woodsy-chypre scent. There is very animalistic amber and musk notes in the base.
The perfume was created 2000 by Christian Provenzano.

26.07.09 I dared to test Agent Provocateur on my wrist, and I was pleasantly surprised. On blotter it was stinking like something undesrcibable, I had impression to smell unwashed body or sweat. During the second try the weather was humid and rainy. Maybe it influenced the rather good result: the scent was quiet and calm, a bit spicy. I thought the fragrance intimate (during the test on blotter is was screming like a siren), close to skin, and I even imagined a woman in sexy lingerie (of the same mark haha) wearing this perfume.

I was able to smell wood, the scent isn't sweet. I do not assiciate Agent Provocateur with sexiness, in my opinion it has light sexiness because of musk but not appealing, seductive. I guess this is a very capricious fragrance: it may develop in a very different way each time applied even by the same person. Of course on different type of skin the effect will be totally different. This is an advantage or disadvantage of musky perfumes. On some people's skin it may be perfect, on somebody's awful.

I don't agree with comments Agent Provocateur smells like an old lady. And I can't agree neither with the classification floral woody musk, I would call it chypra musk or simply chypra. In some notes it was similar to Perles de Lalique, but this last one is spicier. In general chypra fragrances don't like me and I don't like them.
I'm still surprised with this perfume, not that I want to buy it immediately but it's worth another try fore sure.
My definition will be given later.

Maîtresse (floral aldehyde)

Instead of the first fragrance Agent Provocateur I tried today (08.08.09) Maîtresse. All perfumes by Agent Provocateur have sexy aims, this one isn't exception. I think the name matches perfectly to the liquid in the bottle.





Maitresse is the newest fragrance of Agent Provocateur. This is an irresistible secret weapon, a sweet and sexy fragrance, which is not so emphatic and shameless as the first AP scent, but seductive as well.
The composition is based on aldehydes. The passionate opening of White Lotus Petals and delicate nuances of white Ylang Ylang and Violet leaves leads to the floral heart of Osmanthus, Jasmin and Rose. The final note is woodsy powdery with Iris, Amber, Patchouly and White Suede.
The egg-shaped (bomb-shaped) bottle is provocative as the pervious ones. The perfume was created by Azzi Glasser 2006. Agent Provocateur Maitresse was launched in 2006.

The poster is also ideal for this fragrance showing a real maîtresse every man has to obey to. I have a picture of woman in leather lingerie and a lash in her hand. One of her secret arms is a perfume.

I don't like aldehydes anywhere, so it's hard for me to imagine me wearing this fragrance. But people who do like them, sure will appreciate it. I must confess that this aldehyde base is very appropriate here, it gives the perfume the strenth and power. The flowers I can smell through aldehydes are not agressive at all (it would be too much if it was so haha). I would use it only in sex games :-))

My definition: sado-maso plays

Valentino

V (floral woody musk)

I wanted to try it long time ago and always postponed. Finally 25.07.09 I saw in the shop both versions and didn't hesitate a minute.







Fashion designer Valentino and couturier, who dresses the most beautiful women in the world, dreamed of a passionate juice for ‘chameleon women’;‘I felt the need for a new women’s perfume that would reflect and celebrate today’s woman – her power, her femininity, her complexity.’-said Valentino. The ad campaign features model Eugenia Volodino wearing a red mask, behind it, there is a mysterious and complex woman, an inspiritaon to Valentino.Red is Valentino’s favorite color. Firmenich and Procter & Gamble Beauty are to companies that worked on this creation. V is feminine and passionate, a sparkling blend of woody, floral and Oriental notes. There is the warmth of heliotrope, the classic scents of rose and orange blossom, and the zesty notes of pink grapefruit and green fig over a sensual trail of amber and Oriental woods. Top notes include tangerine, pink grapefruit, green fig and freesia. Rose, orange blossom and heliotrope at the heart are harmonized with the base notes of Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, amber and musk. The perfume was created in 2005. The nose behind this fragrance is Alberto Morillas.

I liked it very much. It's a delicate, light fragrance. As for its mood it reminds me Allure, Gucci Eau de parfum II, For her by Narciso Rodriguez. Sure all these scents are very different, the common is that all they are intimate, people can smell them during the close contact, they don't speak "loud".

V is a lovely combination of fruity and citrus notes and woody-musky base. It contains vanilla and sweetness is among its carachteristics, but all is very well balanced. The fragrance is harmonious, warm. One of its specialities - V contains rice that appears in the base.

It's quiet neutral scent, ideal for work and appropriate for evening. Since in the evening I prefer something heavier, I wouldn't mind to have V in my collection to wear to work. The lasting power is remarkable. It's not a masterpiece but a very decent perfume.

My definition: gentle softness

V Absolu (floral woody musk)


This perfume was released the same year that V - 2005. I would say this is its girlier version.



A new limited edition, V Absolu, features in Valentino’s favorite color, red. The scent is warm leaving a comfortable trail. Slightly fresh in the beginning it revolves into a rich composition that perfectly blends the notes of citruses and sweet flowers. Orange blossom sings at perfume’s heart together with the notes of frangipani and heliotrope. The base is composed of warm woods and comforting vanilla; cedarwood, sandalwood, amber, musk, Burbon vanilla. It was created in 2005.

It's more floral and fruity that V that makes V absolu more cheerful and joyful. It's bright, sophisticated. As for me it's suitable for casual style and evening dress both. I would wear it in daytime. I can smell cherry, grapefruit, apple.

If I had to chose one V version for me, it would be V altough V Absolu isn't bad too.

My definition: girly brightness

vendredi 24 juillet 2009

Thierry Mugler

Angel (oriental vanilla)

Many people compare Euphoria to Angel, since I adore the first one, I became interested in Angel too. I did several tests and I want to buy it. If it wasn't so expensive, I would have already had Angel .







Angel by Thierry Mugler is a oriental vanilla fragrance for women. Angel was launched in 1992. The noses behind this fragrance are Olivier Cresp and Yves de Chirin. Top notes are melon, coconut, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, bergamot and cotton candy; middle notes are honey, apricot, blackberry, plum, orchid, peach, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, red berries and rose; base notes are tonka bean, amber and vanilla, patchouli, musk, vanilla, dark chocolate and caramel.

Angel is one of the classic sweet (oriental vanilla) fragrances. I have read so many times about its unbearable sweetness and complexity. Luca Turin considers this fragrance a masterpiece and gives it 5 stars.

My tests made me doubt - was the Angel I tried exactly that Angel I had read about? Because on my skin it's not sweet at all! One of descriptions says Angel is a refreshing oriental scent. This is exactly what I get! The fragrance is very long lasting and during all time it passes differents etaps. Should be applied with moderation - one spritz is enough, two spritzes can kill you or people around.

The dominating note for me is something herbal or even menthol (maybe it's because of bergamote and flowers combination). It doesn't permit the fragrance to be too sweet. I was surprised it contains caramel and chocolate because on my skin I can't feel them.
I can also smell patchouli, amber, vanilla.

The first time I was very surprised by the change - in 4-5 hours after application Angel transforms exactly to Euphoria (of course, it's logical to say that this is Euhoria that transforms in Angel). I don't consider Euphoria sweet neither. The sweetness appears in Angel only after 12-15 hours. Last time I tried it yesterday (26.07.09) and the next morning I'm still able to smell its trails, these trails are chocolate.

Angel is an incredible fragrance because it behaves on every woman in a diferent way: there are people who can't stand it because of sweetness and heaviness, others can feel only honey. On my skin it gives a strange combination but I love it. I would like to have it in my collection and sure I will have it one day. The bottle in the shape of star is cute. I hate the model Naomi Watts doing the ad of Angel.

Everybody says Angel is supposed to be for evenings and winter. I can easily imagine me wearing it in summer days (sure making only one spritz!). The fragrance is elegant, feminine, I would wear it with dresses and costumes. It's sophisticated and alluring, transparent and jingly.

My definition: blue tenderness

Narciso Rodriguez

Essence (floral)

Of course me as a big fan of previous Narciso's creations was very anxious to try the latest one - Essence. Some time ago my husband brought me a blotter with this perfume and I have been enjoting it for a very long time. Its lasting power is incredible. Sure the paper doesn't permit the scent to develop like on a human skin. Today (24.o7.09) I tested Essence on my wrist and was desappointed...









After very successful edition for women, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, as well as its companion Narciso Rodriguez for Him, and their reinterpretations with mirror effect from 2008 (Article: Narciso Rodriguez Reflection in a Mirror ), a new fragrance, Essence for women, arrives on the market next year, 2009.

Airy and floral Essence will be introduced in March 2009 (to global market in April), as a limited edition, announced as very sexy, with pure, fresh and complete sunlight effect, decorated with a collage of rose, iris and amber and a musk base, created of Narciso Rodriguez' favourite ingredients, which bring a feeling of pleasure.

Essence was developed by Alberto Morillas (Firmenich), as a powdery-musky fragrance based on aromas of powdery iris, rose petals, benzoin balm surrounded with modern accords of musk.

Its flacon is created of glass, it is gently rounded and has mirror effect. Creator of the bottle is Ross Lovegrove, who found inspiration in the first edition for women, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, showing the new edition as a modern, futuristic and very sensual solution which follows the composition. The new bottle exhibits modern beauty.

The main reason I disliked it is soapy note that makes it similar to Insolence by Guerlain. Both fragrances smell like washing powder on my skin. I can smell some flowers but the base it really disgusting for me. In my opinion, Essence is too far from two first extraordinary fragrances For Her. Essence is supposed to be lighter, whiter, softer than previous ones. If there were no these soapy notes, I would like it for sure!

The glass bottle is very cute.

My definition: flowery soap

Gucci

This is one of my favourite brands whose fragrances are feminine, soft, elegant, sometimes coquettish. The company has a lack of fantasy, giving unoriginal names to its fragrances :-)

Gucci Eau de parfum (oriental spicy)

Since I tested yesterday the second version of Eau de parfum, it was logical to think it existed the first one. I read a lot of contradictory comments about it. The disadvantage is that this perfume is seldom exposed in our shops. But I found it easy in Brocard of Kryvoi Rog (25.07.09).

I'm not afrraid to call Gucci Eau de parfum a unique scent. It's uncommon and I think it's impossible to find something similar.





Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci is a oriental spicy fragrance for women. Gucci Eau de Parfum was launched in 2002. The nose behind this fragrance is Daniela Roche-Andrier. Top notes are orange blossom and heliotrope; middle notes are caraway, iris, caraway and thyme; base notes are incense, leather, sandalwood, musk, vanilla and cedar essence.

I associate Gucci Eau de parfum with October. In my mind I have the picture of sun shining through branches of trees. Yellow leaves cover the ground. This is rather sweet scent but not like lollipop or chewing gum. I smell a light tobacco gauze and alcohol drink like whiskey or cognac. In 4-5 hours I can smell chocolate. I can't say definitely wether I like it or not. I guess people's reaction will be rather negative. There is some note that disturbes me - in some comments people call it naphthalene (I haven't smelled it before so I can't agree or desagree). Its lasting power is incredible. The next morning I repeated my test and understood what's wrong - I have impression to smell this perfume on somebody else and not me, it's a little bit distant from my skin, like it was out-of-body.The fragrance is transparent.
In general I like it more than dislike. I will repeat my test and maybe buy it. This is the perfume of an expensive woman.

My definition: October day


Gucci Eau de parfum II (floral fruity)

I have just tested it today (24.07.09) and this was a good surprise for me. I haven't heard or read about this fragrance before. I just saw it in a shop and decided to try.





After the success of the first Gucci Eau de Parfum, it has got a companion, a little pink sister, fruity-floral Eau de Parfum II with recognizable and modern blackberry nuance in floral ambience. The fragrance is luminous, and light, casual and flirty, with a lingering trace. Its simplicity and precious components make it very modern and attractive to youn women.

In top notes you will find a tart freshness of orange, black currant, and mandarin. The young and elegant heart unites violet, blackberry, and fresh jasmine. The base notes are heliotrope, musk and cedar. The perfume was created by Antoine Maisondieu in 2004.


This is a very tender, delicate, light daytime perfume. I wouldn't mind about having it in my collection. I would wear it to my work, office where something stronger is not desirable. This fragrance will not disturb other people and if it suits you well, will get their compliments. I can mostly smell currant and and blackberry on a very plesant musky-woody base that reminds me ice. The scent is a bit acidic that makes it a kind of refreshing.

My definition: iced berries.

Gucci by Gucci (chypre floral)
I hated this fragrance after the first test in automn 2008 but 25.07. 09 I tried it again and my reaction wasn't negative anymore. I found it elegant and decadent.











Perfume water named simply Gucci by Gucci is planned to be the main fragrance for women by this company. The perfume was announced as a floral chypre, with a fruity opening of exotic guava, beautiful Haitian Tiare flower in the heart, and patchouli, musk and honey in the base. Advertisement was directed by David Lynch, and as music background of the video the legendary hit of the band Blondie "Heart of Glass" was used. Gucci is a new fragrance and it was introduced in 2007. The nose behind this fragrance is Ilias Ermenidis.

The main notes I smell are fruits (pear) and tobacco. On me it's a bit similar to Elle by YSL, but Gucci's perfume is more gotic and dark.
The dress the women in the ad are wearing are perfect for this fragrance. I associate Gucci by Gucci with beige, brown, golden colours. The scent is mostly for evening wear. After 5 hours it became very close to Crystal noir by Versace on my skin. As for the mood it's a bit obscure and lonely.

My definition: fruity-tobacco decadence

Rush (chypre fruity)

It's hard to beleie but I tried it for the first time yesterday (25.07.09). I know it was a very popular, even cult scent in the beginning of 2000. To be sincere I couldn't appreciate it. More than that - this is the compilation of all cheapest scents for me.



This is Gucci's second fragrance for women. Gucci Rush is very attractive and recognizable fragrance, impulsive and irresistible, just like the love at first sight. The name of the fragrance 'Rush' reminds of simulative drug, very widespread in America during 1980's. The intensive red bottle has a shape of video tape, a very unusual and modern design. The fragrance is composed like a luscious exotic flowers cocktail: Californian gardenia, South African freesia, jasmine and Turkish rose. Corriander, vanilla and patchouli emphasize the oriental character and uniqueness of this fragrance.

The top notes are gardenia and freesia; the heart is created of jasmine, Turkish rose and coriander, the drydown unites vanilla, patchouli and vetiver. The fragrance has a lingering trace that follows the woman and surrounds her from all sides. The perfume was created by Michel Almairac in 1999.

After having tried Rush I remember I smelled it 100 times before on different people of different age and appearance. The composition is very complexe, it contains lots of ingredients. and of course Rush has its carachter. It's a strong floral fragrance. It's supposed to be sexy and appealing. I have the opposite reaction and don't even want to try it again. It's among my less faourite fragrances.

My definition: nauseous cheapness

Envy (floral green)


Having Envy me I have been always curious to try the first version. I did it 10.07.09 and had a very good impression. The reason why I will not buy it is because the drydown is identical to Envy me. But in general two fragrances are different.







Gucci Envy appeared on the perfume- scene in 1997 and became one of the most interesting products launched by the house of Gucci. Envy could be compared to a breeze that brings spring into the city. Its architecture is modern; it denies gaudiness, accentuating minimalism. The composition starts with green notes with a cool metal note that freezes the senses. Gradually the scent warms up due to woody notes and musk. This metal accord surrounded by a floral bouquet became very popular during the 90’s. The notes are Hyacinthus, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, green notes, magnolia, iris, woods and musk. The nose behind this fragrance is Maurice Roucel.

dimanche 19 juillet 2009

Lancôme

Magnifique (floral woody musk)

This fragrance was released in October 2008 that was the beginning of my interests in perfume. I like Anne Hathaway and was very impatient to try Magnifique and see if it matches to its name. In my opinion it doesn't match and doesn't deserve this honoured name.
I repeated my test 6 months after (12.06.09) and didn't like it neither.







Magnifique by Lancome is a woody floral musk fragrance for women. Magnifique is a new fragrance and it was introduced in 2008. The noses behind this fragrance are Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. The fragrance features saffron, caraway, rose, jasmine, sandalwood and vetiver.

The ad and bottle of Magnifique are really magnifique. As for the scent there is one note (saffran) that irritated me a lot. It's like a cough medicine. This component doesn't permit me to smell anything else - rose, jasmine etc. Only woody base and saffran. The whole of all components makes the fragrance sweet like a lollipop.
It didn't last long on my wrist and I was glad. Sure I will not buy it.

My definition: sweet cough medicine

Nina Ricci

Nina (floral fruity)

My mother got this perfume for her birthday. Sure I had known about it before, it's very popular among girls and women, almost everyone who is far from diving in perfumery and is surfering only, has got it. My mother is very happy with Nina and wears it only on special occasions. I would say this is a cold day scent since it's warm. Nina is suitable for work, meeting, romantic rendez-vous... very polyfonctional. The major part of people will be delighted with it and sure will ask you what kind of smell it is. The experts or people who like more complicated fragrances will call it "compote".







Nina is a new modern fairytale fragrance aimed at younger audience. Nina is an elegant floral-fruity gourmand fragrance, the scent of candied fruits. The composition starts sparkly and spontaneous, just like a carefree laughter with the fresh citrus notes of lemon and lime. The sweet gourmand heart is juicy and caramelly due to candied apple, praline note and vanilla whose opulent veil wraps the softly sweet peony and the Moonflower. Finally the apple tree, white cedar and balmy musk notes are touching your skin with their warm and soft sensuality. The fragrance was created by Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier in 2006. The new Nina fragrance has replaced the old one with the same name, created in 1987.

I would classify Nina as a fruity scent as I can't smell any flowers in it. First of all I can smell citrus notes, then apple with caramel. Although I seldom associate fragrances with ages this is a totally girly scent in my opinion. The cute bottle is like a toy too. I stole it from my mother twice and don't want to wear it anymore. It's not bad at all, one of the best girly scents. Inappropriate for me.

My definition: apple jam

Love in Paris (floral)

Judging by the name I imagined something light, floral, special like the atmosphere of Paris. Yesterday (21.07.09) I tried it the first time. Before I red comments about its feminity and French carachter on one hand and negative comments about its heaviness and synthetical components on the other. I must agree with negative comments...







A woman in love in the most romantic city in the world was the muse of this soft floral fragrance. Joyous spring-time accord of rose and peony is in the centre of this love essence.

The freshness of bergamot and spicy but delicate and thin note of star anise compose the top. Velvety apricot and jasmine bring in a sweet feminine nuance into the floral heart of peony and rose. Delicate base of balmy crystal musk, woodsy notes and vanilla rounds this fragrant love story. The fragrance was created in 2004 by Aurelien Guichard.


If I haven't been to Paris before and judged it only by this perfume, I would never have desire to visit this city. The city is fabulous but I can't say it about the fragrance. In my mind it's awful and very similar with Dolce Gabbana - The one that I can't stand neither. I just can smell synthetical fruits (peaches) and
a very unpleasant base, the smell is overpowering. I can only imagine it on mature woman in microdose. I wouldn't give it as present to anybody.

My definition: synthetical peaches