dimanche 19 juillet 2009

Chanel

In this section I will be describing all fragrances by Chanel I've tried or will try. I especialy love this Maison, for me Chanel symbolizes elegance, delicacy, refinement. I have a huge admiration for Gabrielle Chanel's personallity. This woman had a special feeling and talent that anticipated her epoch.

It would be fair to start this review by the most famous perfume ever - Chanel № 5 (floral aldehyde). The first time I tried this fragrance in 2002 (I was 18) when my fiancé brought it from France. It exists a lot of versions of this perfume: Parfum, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette and different concentrations among them. My fiancé bought the splash version (without atomizer). I just smelled it from the bottle and thought how awful it is. I could imagine only my grandmother wearing it. My fiancé didn't like it neither, he bought it only because it was the only classic perfume which name he knew. The fragrance seemed to sharp and aldehyde to us.













Famous Chanel N°5 is a symbol of good taste and is currently one of the best selling perfumes in the world. Coco Chanel asked the perfume designer Ernest Beaux to create a perfume ' which smells like a woman'. Chanel N°5 is a very complex fragrance which does not allow any of the fragrant components to be isolated out of the composition, what was exactly a request of the great Chanel – the perfume should not smell like a rose, or a lily of the valley, but as a composition.

The perfume became famous thanks to many celebrities who wore it, among which Marilyn Monroe. Chanel N°5 is often connected to her name because during an interview in 1954 she said that in bed she wore only ‘some drops of Chanel N°5'. That statement became a superb advertising slogan and a reason for millions of women around the world to choose this perfume. The current Chanel N°5 face is Nicole Kidman.

Ernest Beaux created two series of perfume samples numbered 1-5 and 20-24 and asked Coco Chanel to choose one of them. Madame Chanel chose the sample no. 5 and thus the perfume got its name. Superstitious, Chanel presented her new perfume on the fifth day of the fifth month of 1921.

Working on creation of this perfume, Ernest Beaux created and for the first time used the synthetic component – aldehydes. In his formula the aldehydes are accompanied by fragrances of rose and jasmine. The fragrance of aldehydes is pure and fresh, reminds of the odor of clean linen just brought in the house form the fresh frosty air. It is said that the famous creator drew his inspiration for creation of this fragrance from one of his visits to the Arctic Circle and the smell of water in midnight. The unique smell of frozen lakes and rivers fascinated him so much that he decided to replicate it in his creation.

Chanel N°5 is the first perfume in the floral-aldehyde group and the first by the quantity of aldehydes in its composition (another legend says that the Ernest Beaux's assistant overdosed the aldehydes in the composition by mistake). The top notes are composed of aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli and ylang-ylang, the heart of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and iris, while the base is created of vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, amber and patchouli.

The first Chanel N°5 was captured in a simple rectangular bottle with the top which resembled Place Vendome in Paris. The first bottle was designed by Chanel herself and represents her classical principle – the less is more.

I will postpone my review of Chanel N 5 due to the fact it's has been for a long time in my mother-in-law's house and I hardly remember this smell now. I'll write about it as soon as I refresh my memories. Posting the pictures here I thought again - I don't like Nicole Kidman doing this ad...

The company has had many high-profile celebrities as spokesmodels, including Catherine Deneuve (1970s Chanel No.5 spokesmodel), Nicole Kidman (early 2000s Chanel No. 5 spokesmodel), Audrey Tautou (current Chanel No.5 spokesmodel), and most famously, Marilyn Monroe (1950s Chanel No. 5 spokesmodel) pictured splashing herself with a bottle of Chanel No. 5. The image is certainly the most famous of all Chanel advertisements, and continues to be one of the most popular advertisement photos in the history of marketing, used in countless biographies, and still selling in large quantities as a poster and art piece using Marilyn Monroe as the model.[2].

I refreshed my impessions yesterday (21.07.09) trying Eau de parfum in a shop. During first 2 hours it seemed too strong, acidic and disgusting like a public haidressing saloon. But then it began changing to very tender flowers and powedry base. If I want to use it, I shell put it on 2 hours before I go somewhere.

Chanel N 5 Eau Première (floral aldehyde)



For Chanel No°5 fans, Chanel is launching a new version of the world-renowned perfume – Chanel N°5 Eau Premiere. This modern and seductive fragrance was adapted from the original Chanel N°5 by Jacques Polge.

The new version of the 'old' fragrance is lighter, fresher, softer, more delicate, and suitable for every-day use. Chanel N°5 Eau Premiere includes all original ingredients of N°5: rose absolute, jasmine, neroli and ylang-ylang. Ylang-ylang for this fragrance comes from the Comoro Islands, and Jasmine from Chanel-owned fields in Grasse. The face on the ad is again Nicole Kidman.

Chanel No°5 Eau Premiere comes in 150ml bottle (US$125) and will be available at department stores and other Chanel retailers in October 2007.

I repeated my test of this fragrance on 4.07.2009 when I saw in my city forum the offer to buy this bottle 4-5 girls together and divide it. The bottles are really too big and inappropriate for one person's use.

If I didn't know the name of the fragrance, I wouldn't say it has something in common with "old" Chanel N 5. Some people say they have many similarities and common base. On my skin it results into a different scent. Of course, it's much quieter, softer and lighter than the classic version, and the description also mentions it. It's more suitable for daytime wearing and young women (not girls). I can imagine a young business lady wearing this fragrance. I liked it enough: the scent is tender, green, citrusy BUT what I didn't like at all is the soapy not that appeared after 1 hour. I hate smelling "soap" in fragrances that's why I will never buy it (to be fair it's recommended to try under different weather conditions). Sure it depends on body chemistry, on other people it may smell other way. Though I admire Jacques Polge's talent in this renewal work. One more desadvantage: all scents (and especially Chanel's creations) last very long and this time went away in 2,5 -3 hours.

My definition: clean (or soapy) renewal

Allure - EDT (oriental floral)

I would exclude the word "oriental" from its classification and leave only floral. I adore man's Allure (édition blanche) and I was very impatient to tru woman's version. I tested EDT first (now I see it was also the first version chronologically).







Like all Chanel perfumes, Allure has a rich and complex composition. Fresh and citrusy at the beginning, it opens in lavishing floral heart to wooden and vanilla nuances and leaves lingering and fickle scent. It is best to describe it by the various accords it possesses:
Fresh: lemon and bergamot
Fruity: mandarin and peach
Classical floral: the rose of May, jasmine, water lily, peony, magnolia, orange blossom
Woody: sandalwood and vetiver
Oriental: vanilla
The perfume was created by Jacques Polge in 1996.

In my opinion this scent is very calm and peaceful. I can smell tender white flowers. It's not sweet at all although vanilla is among its components. I can't feel woody notes neither. The fragrance is feminine, subtle, distingue, harmonious. Ideal option for an office. On my skin it was too quiet and I could smell it only about 3 hours.

My definition: subtle white flowers.

Allure - EDP (oriental vanilla)

I liked this version more than EDT. It's not loud and heavy neither but has more interesting character.




Allure eau de parfum by Chanel is a oriental vanilla fragrance for women. Allure eau de parfum was launched in 1999. The fragrance features bergamot, mandarin orange, peach, cedar, vanilla, rose, jasmine, peony, magnolia, orange blossom, lotus and vetiver.

Altough the components are almost the same, the fragrance is different. The flowers are the same as in EDT but because of vanilla base the fragrance gets sweeter and powedry and creamy base. This perfume was long lasting - I felt it about 10 hours (I noticed all vanilla based smells are very long lasting). I can apply the same carachteristics as for the EDT - feminine, sensual, classy. EDT and EDP both underline the best side of woman's personnality. I wouldn't mind about having it in my collection. I would use it with pleasure on my work or daytime meetings. For the evening I prefer heavier fragrances.

My definition: spirituelle elegance

Allure Sensuelle (oriental floral)

I was very surprised to know Allure Sensuelle was released in 2006. If I had to judge by the scent, I would say this is the oldest one of all Allure fragrances.







I tested it in March: on my wrist and blotter both. The blotter smelled about 3 weeks. I wsa very surprised it is so long lasting!! First 20 minutes I coudn't smell it (too aldehyde like almost all scents by Chanel) but than it showed its beauty.

Allure Sensuelle has preserved its unique and playful fickleness with dazzling citrus, fruity and floral notes, and magnificent wooden accords. Resemblance is there, yet the fragrance has become more mysterious and shady. It has not become heavier, but unlike the dazzling brightness and joyful sunny character of the classic Allure, Allure Sensuelle is warmer, its powdery (iris) and oriental notes are accentuated. Its sweet notes (candied fruits) are not obtruding, but hidden in sensual spices and frankincense.

The top notes contain bergamot, mandarin and pink pepper. The heart is composed of jasmine, rose, iris, candied fruits and vetiver followed by the base notes of French vanilla, amber, patchouli and frankincense. The perfume was created in 2006 by Jacques Polge. Its face is charming actress Anna Mouglailis.

As for me this fragrance is much heavier than classic Allure and more appropriate for the evening time.It's even more elegant than previous versions, more sophisticated, solemn. As the description says all notes have been accentuated. I find it has something in common with Coco: it's spicy, includes patchouli but Allure is sweeted and not so dry as Coco is. Now I don't want to have it. Although I'm against of giving ages to fragrances, I imagine it on a mature woman.

My definition: warm solemnity.

Coco Mademoiselle (EDP, chypre floral)

This is one of the most beloved by young women Chanel's fragrances. Coco Mademoiselle and Chance are really aimed to younger audience. EDP and EDT concentrations are different, that's why it's better to separate them.

I liked EDP at first try and this love continues till now.











Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel is a chypre floral fragrance for women. Coco Mademoiselle was launched in 2001. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Polge. Top notes are orange, mandarin orange, orange blossom and bergamot; middle notes are mimose, jasmine, turkish rose and ylang-ylang; base notes are tonka bean, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, vetiver and white musk.

Coco Mademoiselle is the most timid of all Chanel's fragrances. I find this scent romantic and melancholic like a young girl. It's very rich, well done, offering to smell different notes every time. The fragrance is almost impalpable, transparent, tender and delicate. I don't agree this is a joyful or sexy smell. It develops one's fantasy and may smell according to its proprietress. But in all cases Coco Mademoiselle smells very rich and distinct. It requiers elegant clothes.
I want to have it in my collection. If it was cheaper, I would have already had it. I associate Coco Mademoiselle with September, the month I was born.
One more test (23.08.09) - this is a beautiful, complicate scent!

My definition: melancholic delicacy.

Egoiste (woody spicy)

Since my husband fell in love with Egoiste Platinum, I asked him every day to try Egoiste. After reading the description, I guessed well I will like it more than Platinum version. Egoiste is more complicated and natural at the same time. He tried it today 13.08.09.





Egoïste is a very conservative masculine fragrance composed of spice, wood and vanilla notes. The top notes, intensive and fresh, include rosewood and coriander. Later on, the fragrance character becomes warmer and mysterious due to Bulgarian rose, carnation and warm cinnamon in its heart. The main theme of the composition (long and intensive woodsy trace) reaches its full expression in the lingering base composed of sandalwood, intensive vanilla and ambrette seeds. The perfume was created in 1990. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Polge.

I was right thinking I would like it more than Platinum version. Egoiste belongs to the same destination as Coco - spicy, woody, warm. Egoiste became one of my favourite men's fragrances: very warm, sweet enough, sensual woody. The main thing I can smell is cherry, but not a berry, rather cherry pit. The scent is deep, dense, harsh, promising pleasures... Very sensual and erotic for me who liked deep and a bit sweet scents. My husband didn't like it much.
I wouldn't resist a man wearing Egoiste... As for me it's very exciting. Luca Turin appreciates Egoiste more than Platinum one.

My definition: harsh erotic

Egoiste Platinum (woody floral musk)

After having tested all available women's fragrances (sure I don't take into consideration perfumes sold in Chanel special boutiques) I decided to try men's ones. I knew only Allure homme Edition blanche that I adore, my cheif used to wear it and I was always impessed by this smell. I read Egoiste Platinum was one of the most popular men's fragrances by Chanel and convinced my husband to try it. He adored it and I just liked, not more.









Egoïste Platinum by Chanel is a woody floral musk fragrance for men. Egoïste Platinum was launched in 1993. The nose behind this fragrance is Jacques Polge. Top notes are rosemary, lavender, neroli and petit grain; middle notes are galbanum, clary sage, jasmine and geranium; base notes are amber, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vetiver and cedar.

My husband tried it 3 times in total, he adores this fragrance and wants to have it. I can mainly smell lavender, rosemary and woodsy notes. The scent is cold, distant, selfish, arrogant justifiing its name. Not for young boys, suitable for young and elder men. I have a picture of a man concentrated on his carreer, professional life, adored by women, he likes to play with them but never falls in love. The perfume is classy and beautiful.

My definition: selfish coldness

Chance EDP (chypre floral)

I'd tested it long time ago before I've gor a fresh version.


Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire